Sorry this has taken so long. It was my intention to write every 2 days so that I don’t leave anything out but…. sometimes I get wifi, sometimes I get wifi but it doesn’t work, sometime there is just nothing at all and sometimes the journey is just so full of awe there just isn’t time in case there is a “Camino event ” that I would miss!
So…. the magic of The Way from Viana to Burgos.
Leaving Viana I walked alone to the large, university city of Logrono ( pop 150000). It is the Capital of La Rioga region… famous for its wine…… and its is good and there is muchos available at $1.50 a glass!
Along the way I met Tom from a small town ( Kimberly) in the East Kootenays of BC , Canada.
We all have stories. We all have reasons for walking this route…. they are mostly very different and quite personal but they are all inspirational in a unique way. His was to learn how to live in the moment again. Something we could all remember to try and do in our fast paced world… to enjoy life for what it is now and for what it throws up…… to thrive on and accept the challenges and speed humps along the way.
Reached Navarrete, a small village, oozing charm, warn by time and millions of Pilgrim footsteps. With its narrow streets, it’s modest but beautiful church, it felt comfortable… it was warm in its welcoming…as was the Albergue del Pelegrinos.
Run by Angel ( real name and quite fitting ) and his aging Mother and Father. Angel has walked the Camino 5 times and is still in awe of its spirituality. He believes, as do many, that it is the alignment of the Sun and the Milky Way that enhances and magnifies the mystery of this path. Just as we are today, people have been walking this “way” for many thousands of years….. following the Sun and giving thanks for all it provides.
I met many more good people over our pelegrino dinner that night…. more to add to my Camino Family…. people like Annli from Denmark and Mario from Milano who I would walk with, people who I would share many Camino moments and life stories with, people who come and go but who will stay with me in spirit throughout.
So on to Nagera.
Nagera and yet another beautiful church.
and yet another festival! This one? Wait for it…. the Rio de Nagera carnival!!! Ring a bell?
My Albergue was literally right next to the bandstand and the music went on until 5am…. up again at 6 to keep walking… no sleep that night!
Walking into Santa Domingo de la Calzada, feeling good in body and mind. Feeling so blessed to be able to do this when so many will never have the chance… determined to make every second count.
My bed that night was in a converted 15th century monastery ( Acadia Cistercienses) that I shared with 33 others. A wonderfully peaceful and calm place, it has been welcoming and providing safety to Pilgrims for over 500 years!
I shared a fireplace with other pilgrims from all over the world…. not many had English …. I only have English…. and yet we were all soon deep in conversation….so it is on The Way!
Santo Domingo is famous, amongst so many other things for its Church which houses live chooks to keep a ” miracle” alive.
The town has a drinking fountain…. but so does every town and village, this one though had a date of 1799….. just 29 years after Europeans discovered Australia ….made me think just how young we are as a Nation…… and still to create our own history.
….. and next to it was this thought provoker! Is this what our journey’s are all about?
On to Belorado…. changing landscapes as we go.
And yet another Camino moment. A Pilgrim blessing with a difference!
…..immagine people from Spain, Brazil, Australia, Korea, Sweden, Japan, France, Peru, Germany, and Switzerland. All united, all saying the prayer of St James, one by one and in their own language then all, one by one singing a religious song in their own language then all embracing each other as one! Camino magic at its most spontaneous and unexpected!
By the way so glad I didn’t have to represent Australia in song. The only religious song I could think of at the time was “up there Gazaly”!
Then back to the Albergue and more wine and singing with more Camino family
A big climb to 1150 mts and the monumento de los Caidos, a reminder of the Spanish civil war. The monument marks the spot were people were summarily shot and buried in shallow graves.
Then on through the forest to San Juan de Oretaga and lodgings with 100 other very smelly Pelegrinos, 2 showers and 2 toilets…. just immagine…. the worst yet!
A walk of 28k ( plus another 11 around the city) to Burgos.
Burgos is s large sprawling city and at least 10 km of the walk was through the burbs. Has a population of 180000 and is an architectural wonder full of monuments and is often referred to as the Gothic capital of Spain. It is named after its heavy defensive towers ( burgos) and was home to the legendary El Cid .
Burgos Cathedral… oh my! The 2nd largest and best in Spain. It is overwhelming…. you would need days to see it all and take in what it has. The detail and workmanship of the artisans of the medieval time is just amazing…. something that could not be repeated or replaced.
Did you ever wonder where all that Inca gold went ?
Today is a rest day for me …. they say that the Camino is made up of 3 parts. The 1st about the body ( mine hurts… right knee and quad, left calf and foot, neck and back), the second ( the Meseta…. which I am about to walk through) is about the mind and will power and the third is about the Spirit. Time to rest the body, do the washing, explore this city and find the best Sangria and Paella a few Euro can buy.
Siesta time in Burgos!
……And in the words of El Cid himself ( who, by the way is buried in the Burgo Cathedral), Adios Amigos…. please don’t forget the Children at Meg’s…… it is way better to give than it is to receive…. for, as I am finding, it is in giving that you truly receive.
Talk soon….. off around another bend on this intriguing journey.